Wed Sept 29th, 2010 - Thurs Oct 7th, 2010
Written by Robin Renitent
for www.rebellogblog.com / dev
(朝鲜民主主义人民共和国)
Travel Section North Korea as part of a four-year world tour.
preparation and entry
escaped me exactly when we travel to the decision after North Korea seized the first time the idea came at least in Croatia and Hungary. In Hungary, with easy access, then we have fished the first information from the Internet. Afterwards, the following was clear: The way we design our trips is usually not possible in the DPRK. A travel on your own, completely independent of travel agencies and other people is not there. You can not even look for a hotel, also free to travel about the country is prohibited.
Nevertheless, we wanted as much independence as possible. So there was only an individual tour. Which is more expensive but available. The four of us, as a family, plus the mandatory travel companion. For us it is nevertheless a clear commitment to individual travel, the individual vs. classic contrast. Collectively. Why, we should travel in a collectivist society organized just as a group trip, so as a collective - if we do not do it otherwise?
We first invited us out the application forms in this business a successful and Beijing-based company the Internet. Was quite clear at once that the DPRK is allergic to journalists. That is why I renewed my membership in the CAJ in April and no longer confined myself in this respect also usual when completing the application so I could add that I truly "retired" I and my wife wrote "Housewife" into it, which is indeed quite true, because we are already 2 years on the road and a working life on the road "is not possible.
So we sent out our requests even from South Korea to the UK Agency and booked as follows: Independent Tour - September 18/19 - October 6 / 7 2010th This was worked out just fine, even the passport photos you submit online, the agency was, and is very experienced and organized a major part, if not the decisive share of tourists to the DPRK. Everything has been agreed by email, at the specified tour proposals is like to his wishes in time to announce, almost any change possible. Later we were under the impression that the Korean government agency attempts to implement all the requirements - if, indeed if it tells time and gives them the opportunity to prepare the appropriate steps in the long term. Spontaneity is not the strength of autocratic-led states. We wanted to have included a visit to a farm and a visit to a public school in the tour. No problem. Later I was annoyed to visit a textile factory to have forgotten. After we were still 50 percent down payment paid to the agency, we dedicated ourselves to our stay in China.
One day before departure, we were invited to a briefing. Here we received our visas and train tickets. As I wrote earlier, we prefer rail travel to prepared us to approach slowly and according to a target to. In this we are not Kim Jong-il dissimilar, he prefers the train ... And how right we were, the tourists einschweben by plane to the DPRK, do not even know what they're missing. Also, the briefing was again the classic combination vs. individual. Collectively. The briefing room was obviously a meeting room for group tourists, with many chairs, lined up like a cinema show. Unruly family here alone. We were briefed on rules of conduct and especially the photo rules about tipping issues and benefits, of behavior, courtesy and possible discussion topics, with our hosts in Korea. Most of it we already knew that with the gifts not for the tour guides.
Now we paid the second Half of the price and spent the rest of the day to buy small gifts. Cosmetics and scarves for female tour guide, cigarettes and ties for men, candies for the children to visit the school. Also, my offspring and I bought a tie, dress appropriately for the obligatory visit to the Kim Il-sung Memorial is required.
Now we have reduced our luggage by 50 percent, as did all 4 laptops in the boot, pocket knives, anything that might cause complications, and all back at the hotel and started the next day, the Wed. Sept 29th at 17:30 with the train from Beijing Central Station. They were the last two carriages of the train and our reserved compartment was approximately in the middle of the car. The cars belonged to the North Korean railroad and the conductor were North Koreans. The train was divided equally with North Koran "filled" the other half were Chinese. Even as we train the entered, which, as we discovered later, probably the best is what the Korean railway has to offer, he was fully loaded crack. In our compartment we had crammed the upper storage area with boxes. The course was free, but spaces, transitions to other compartments, - and packed to the roof. But it was more to come. The trip to Pyongyang last 24 hours. In the next few hours we drove at a leisurely pace, but on very smooth and well-laid rails in the direction of Dandong. The bedding was much easier than with the Trans-Siberian railway, but the bed was long enough for me. Total was not uncomfortable night, The Chinese were certainly quieter than on the ferry to China.
In Dandong, the next morning, then the big surprise. We thought the train was full, but what followed was an orgy Pack first order. The compartments of the alighting Chinese were so packed that we remained a mystery how one could sit there. This modern station with more and more Chinese flocked to train carts. The visit will last about 2 hours, during this time, the compartments filled up to the roof. Some covetous eyes were already in our compartment, but no one dared to ask if we would place abgegen. Now the train was ranked determined 6 times back and forth, again purely out of the station, back to the station, locomotive changes, and everything and again. Our passports had been taken from us but then came the Chinese officials gave it all back and off we went across the border bridge to the Korean side. Once again, almost 3-hour stay. No photography allowed. Then came the North Koreans and also controlled the passports, took them, but they are not stamped. After the passport officials were the tax collectors. I had to open all the suitcases, take the laundry out and explain the details. My tripod stick, he looked at them and the cameras listed he neatly without controlling them. Also had my photo backpack I can not open. Scrolls and books were carefully asked about GPS or cell phone several times. Have not we all, and the book the book was my 11 year old daughter: "Marley - a dog like no other". The man was not unfriendly, children are always the "door opener". Then it went off in glorious weather and we drove through the beautiful North Korean landscape. Yes, she is beautiful, especially the ripe, yellow rice fields glistening in the sun. I took out the two cameras and took photos of People and landscapes. Thank God, the lenses clean. The one photographed people see the North Korean authorities not like to photograph people in work clothes prohibited direct portraits too. Too often malicious and one-sided reporting journalists have abused the photos to the DPRK and its people in a bad light to move. No one knows better than me what you can do with photos and so I took photos but also of people, so I sit down over the ban, but not in disrespektierlicher way. If I as the ratio of people of my photos to photos of landscape, architecture and Including in North Korea itemizing, the proportion of people photos, including lack of opportunity, eh under 2 percent.
We see many people work in the fields, bent over, as is required for cutting rice, ox carts, we see some, many bicycles, cars we do not see at most a few trucks, most with wood burning. In some places, built of cement mixed by hand, here is yet saves power even Mixer I do not see a short time
19 clock we reach the Pyongyang Railway Station outside, it is now pitch dark. (Time difference with Beijing one hour) The train station is only dimly lit and we stand with our 2 small suitcase und Fotorucksack auf dem knackvollen Perron. Was, wenn uns nun niemand abholt? Aber eher fällt der Mond vom Himmel, als daß das passiert, und ---- nach 5 Minuten fragen mich 2 dunkelblau gekleidete Herren nach meinem Namen. Wir hatten eigentlich eine Dame und einen Herren erwartet. Das sind sie, unsere Begleiter für die nächsten Tage. Sie stellen sich vor, die Herren heißen Kim und Ri und schon geleiten sie uns durch die Menge zu unserem Fahrzeug. Das ist ein Bus für etwa 18 Personen, um ihn zu füllen, müßten wir also noch einige Kinder machen. Der Fahrer heißt Lee und los gehts. Dieser Bus, mit diesem Fahrer, ist für all our next day, nothing is changed. The bus is the way, spotless, even the windows.
Now the gentlemen once more to make detailed and welcome us officially on behalf of the "State Quranic travel agents". A moment later we are in the hotel, a 47-storey twin tower hotel building with revolving rooftop restaurant. We do not check in, the men we check in and our 2 room, for the children and us parents, are next to each other in the 30th Floor. The men sleep on the first companion Floor. They also eat in another restaurant. Since
we are hungry we go immediately afterwards in the dining room and dine with cloth napkins and gimmicks, a refined 5 star hotel. The food is prepared for European tastes, there are unusual, even salt shakers on the table, the cutlery is complete and of good quality, it is heavy in the hand, the chopsticks are made of suitable metal.
Unfortunately my wife is now bad, they get hell of a headache, we suspect that the Luftmagel on the train and the non-opening windows are the cause and sisters and, most unusually, Back to return immediately to her room ck where she falls asleep immediately. After our meal, I wonder if the food I can take my wife to the room and ask for a tray. But not like that, yes, it can not run a guest with a tray of the Hotel. The charming waitress does that cover the food with a napkin and follow us in the 30th Floor. But not alone, a second beauty accompanied us and they wish to not go away. My Lady's first "makes no sense, I am the elder and the guest.
So we parked the food and meet us, but for my wife, with two others with a first meeting. The first refers to our photo behavior. I guarantee the men that I will not fofografieren without their consent (I turn kept essentially) and that I, without their consent would not leave the hotel. Then I give them my handshake. Now we discuss the program again, I will tell something about us and our motivation to create trust and assure them that they have in us as simple as plugging guests. And actually, my goal is to create a good atmosphere because we are quite unusual, constantly be together. The Men's easier to laugh, we make jokes and recount and relaxed. After an hour we go with them, even off operations outside the Hotel a few times to breathe deeply the fresh night air and go immediately to bed.
We are very excited for tomorrow, the first day!
Photos: © Copyright www.rebellogblog.com / Robin renitent 2010
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